15 Best Quickdraws for Climbing – Climbed & Tested


15 Best Quickdraws for Climbing featured image

There are a lot of things to consider when looking for the best quickdraws for climbing. Not only do you want something that’s safe and will perform well, but you also need something that’s comfortable and easy to use.

With so many different brands and models on the market, it can be tough to decide which ones are best for you. That’s why I’ve put together this list of the 15 best quickdraws for climbing.

What are Quickdraws in Climbing?

Quickdraws are one of the most important pieces of gear for rock climbers. They are two carabiners that are connected by a webbing loop or “draw.” The quickdraw is used to attach the climber’s rope to the rock wall, anchors, or protection devices.

Quickdraws Vs Carabiners

Quickdraws Vs Carabiners

In simple terms, a quickdraw is two carabiners that are connected by a loop of webbing. The idea behind a quickdraw is that it makes it quick and easy to clip your rope into protection when you’re climbing.

Carabiners are essentially strong metal loops with a spring-loaded gate that open and close. There are a few different types of carabiners, but the most common type used for climbing is the locking carabiner. Locking carabiners have a mechanism that locks the gate shut, which prevents the carabiner from accidentally opening.

The two carabiners that make up a quickdraw are usually different. The carabiner on the bottom, which is also called the gate-end carabiner, has a straight gate. The carabiner on the top, which is also called the rope-end carabiner, has a bent gate. The reason for this is that the straight gate carabiner is easier to clip into protection, and the bent gate carabiner is easier to clip the rope into.

The webbing that connects the two carabiners is usually about 10-12cm long. The length of the webbing is important because if it’s too short, the carabiners will be too close together and it will be difficult to clip the rope into the top carabiner. If it’s too long, the carabiners will be too far apart and it will be difficult to clip the protection into the bottom carabiner.

Why You Need Quickdraws

Quickdraws are an essential part of a climber’s gear because they allow you to attach your rope to the rock wall. Quickdraws also make it easier and safer to climb by reducing the amount of time you spend fumbling with your gear.

What are the different types of Quickdraw?

There are two main types of quickdraws: straight-gate and bent-gate.

  • Straight-gate quickdraws are the most common type. They are easy to use and are less likely to catch on the rock when you’re climbing.
  • Bent-gate quickdraws are best for experienced climbers who need a little extra space when clipping their rope into protection devices.

The best quickdraws for climbing are the ones that best suit your needs and climbing style. If you’re just starting out, it’s best to get a few basic quickdraws that are easy to use. As you become more experienced, you can add more specialized quickdraws to your collection.

How to Choose Quickdraws

When choosing quickdraws, there are a few things you’ll want to keep in mind. First, consider the type of climbing you’ll be doing. If you’re planning on doing mainly sport climbing, you’ll want quickdraws that are lightweight and have a strong wire gate. If you’re planning on doing more trad climbing, you’ll want quickdraws that are a bit beefier and have a wider webbing loop.

You’ll also want to consider the length of the quickdraw. Quickdraws come in a variety of lengths, from 4 inches (10 cm) to 12 inches (30 cm). The length you choose will depend on the type of climbing you’re doing and your personal preference.

Finally, you’ll want to consider the price. Quickdraws can range in price from $8 to $30 per quickdraw. When choosing quickdraws, it’s important to remember that you get what you pay for. cheaper quickdraws are more likely to break or fail, which could put you in danger.

Now that you know a little bit more about quickdraws, let’s take a look at some of the best quickdraws on the market.

15 of The Best Quickdraws For Climbing On The Market

1. Overall The Best Quickdraw: Black Diamond Positron Quickdraw

Overall The Best Quickdraw: Black Diamond Positron Quickdraw

The Black Diamond Positron Quickdraw is a durable and affordable sport climbing quickdraw. The updated version comes with new colors and a thicker dogbone. They are one of the heaviest quickdraws that I have tested, but they come with a moderately wide sling for easy grabbing. The carabiners are cold-forged and have key locking solid gates.

If you prefer a wire gate carabiner on your rope clipping end, Black Diamond also makes the PosiWire, which has the Positron carabiner on the top and a HotWire carabiner on the bottom.

Product Specs

  • Weight: 110 grams
  • Gate: Solid/Solid
  • Dogbone lengths: 12 cm, 16 cm

2. Wild Country Helium Quick Quickdraw

Wild Country Helium Quick Quickdraw

If you’re looking for a lightweight quickdraw carabiner combo, the Wild Country Helium is a great option. The carabiners are full-size and both have wiregate and keylock functionality, which makes clipping and unclipping a breeze.

They’re also one of the lightest quickdraws I’ve tested, making them ideal for long routes and hard on-sight attempts. However, the skinny sling is a bit of a downside, and they’re also one of the most expensive quickdraws on this list. So if money is a bit of a novelty to you, they are definitely a great investment.

Product Specs

  • Weight: 86 grams
  • Gate: Clean-wire, no-hook gate
  • Dogbone lengths: 14 cm, 17 cm

3. Best Quickdraws for Sport Climbing: Petzl Spirit Express Quickdraw

Best Quickdraws for Sport Climbing: Petzl Spirit Express Quickdraw

The Petzl Spirit Express is one of the most popular quick draws on the market. It is lightweight, has excellent clipping action, and is easy to handle and grab. It was last updated in 2019, with a few cosmetic changes.

These are one of the lightest rock climbing quickdraws on the market, making them perfect for onsight attempts. They are also the original key-locking quickdraws, which makes them perfect for steep sport climbs. They may not be the flashiest draw on the planet, but they are definitely loved by climbers everywhere.

Product Specs

  • Weight: 100 grams
  • Gate: Solid/Solid
  • Dogbone lengths: 11 cm, 17 cm

4. Cheapest Quickdraw: Petzl Djinn Axess Quickdraw

Cheapest Quickdraw: Petzl Djinn Axess Quickdraw

Overall, the Petzl Djinn Axess quickdraws are a good choice for climbers. They have solid keylock gates that provide snag-free unclipping and have a nice, snappy gate action. Additionally, they are built with durability in mind and have large carabiners.

While they may not be the lightest quickdraws available, they are more affordable than Petzl’s flagship Spirit Express model. They make an excellent choice for beginner sport climbers. However, if you are looking for quick draws to use for trad climbing, you may want to consider a different model.

Product Specs

  • Weight: 113 grams
  • Gate: Solid/Solid
  • Dogbone length: 12 cm, 17 cm

5. Mad Rock Concorde Quickdraw

Mad Rock Concorde Quickdraw

The Mad Rock Concorde Quickdraw is a great option for those looking for an affordable quickdraw. They are half the price of some of the other options on the market, and they still maintain proper strength ratings.

The Concorde Quickdraw is a great choice for both trad and sport climbing, but it may not be the best option for either. It could be a bit lighter for trad, or more user-friendly for sport. If you’re looking to save money, the Concorde Quickdraw is a great option.

Product Specs

  • Weight: 87 grams
  • Gate: Wire/Wire
  • Dogbone length: 10 cm

6. DMM Alpha Sport Quickdraw

DMM Alpha Sport Quickdraw

The DMM Alpha Sport Quickdraw is a high-end quickdraw made for sport climbing. It has a great clipping action and the notch in the bent gate seems to eat up the rope with no misfires. The solid gates are keylocking and easy to unclip, and the sling is wide and easy to grab. The full-sized carabiners have great handling.

However, they are on the heavy end and also expensive. They are best suited for sport climbers, but due to their weight and bulk, they are not ideal for alpine climbing or long trad climbs.

Product Specs

  • Weight: 117 grams
  • Gate: Solid/Solid
  • Dogbone lengths: 12 cm, 18 cm, 25 cm

7. Black Diamond HotWire Quickdraw

Black Diamond HotWire Quickdraw

The best quick draws for climbing are versatile and can be used for both sport and traditional climbing. The Black Diamond HotWire is one such quickdraw, and it is a good choice for anyone looking for an all-around performer.

However, the rope can get snagged on the unprotected wiregate and the sling is not designed for grabbing. If you are a dedicated steep sport climber you’ll want the Petzl Spirit Express instead.

Likewise, if you mostly climb long and traditional routes, the Wild Country Helium Quickdraw is much lighter and better suited for that. But if you do a little bit of everything, the Black Diamond HotWire is an excellent choice.

  • Weight: 100 grams
  • Gate: Dual wire gates
  • Dogbone lengths: 18cm

8. Edelrid Bulletproof Quickdraw

Edelrid Bulletproof Quickdraw

If you’re looking for a quickdraw that is both durable and easy to use, the Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Triple FG is a great option. It has a triple-action auto-locking gate that makes it very secure, and the stainless steel insert on the basket protects it from wear and tear.

The internal spring bar also prevents the locker from rotating out of place, making it ideal for belaying with. While it is a bit heavier than other quickdraws sets, its durability makes it a good choice for new climbers.

Product Specs

  • Weight: 119 grams
  • Gate: Solid/Solid
  • Dogbone lengths: 12cm, 18cm

9. Petzl Ange Finesse Quickdraw

Petzl Ange Finesse Quickdraw

If you’re looking for the best quickdraw for all-around climbing, the Petzl Ange Finesse is a great option. They come in four different combinations of carabiners and dogbones, so you can customize them to your needs. They’re versatile and work well for sport climbing and long multi-pitches, making them a great choice for a quiver of one. While they’re not the cheapest option, they’re worth the investment for their high quality and functionality.

Petzl makes great products, and the Ange Finesse is no exception. These quick draws are well-made and built to last. The carabiners are strong and have a smooth action, making them easy to clip. The dogbones are durable and won’t stretch over time. And the overall design is simple but effective, with a keylock nose on the top biner to prevent snagging.

The Ange Finesse quickdraws are available in four different combinations of carabiners and dogbones. The top carabiners come in either small or large, while the bottom carabiners are available in either mini or micro. The small/mini combo is the lightest option, while the large/micro combo is the strongest. I recommend choosing a combo based on your needs — if you’re looking to save weight, go with the small/mini, but if you need more strength for clipping bolts, go with the large/micro.

Product Specs

  • Weight: 72 grams
  • Gate: Monowire/Monowire
  • Dogbone lengths: 10 cm, 17 cm

10. Metolius Bravo II Quickdraw

Metolius Bravo II Quickdraw

If you’re looking for a good, affordable quickdraw, the Metolius Bravo II is a decent option. It features full-sized wiregate carabiners on both the top and bottom, and the sling is exceptionally stiff – making it an excellent choice for sport climbing.

However, some testers found that the angle that the lower carabiner sits at can be uncomfortable, and the JIG rubberized keeper doesn’t seem to fit correctly. Overall, these draws are best suited for sport climbing, but can also be used on long routes.

Product Specs

  • Weight: 79 grams
  • Gate: Monowire/Monowire
  • Dogbone lengths: 12 cm

11. Mad Rock Ultra Light Wire Draw Quickdraw

Mad Rock Ultra Light Wire Draw Quickdraw

The best quickdraws for climbing vary in shape, size, and weight. However, the Mad Rock Ultra Light Wire Draw is a great option because it is both lightweight and affordable.

This carabiner also comes in both a bent and straight gate, making it a versatile option for different types of climbs. While it may not be as high performing as some of the more expensive options, it is a great value for the price.

Product Specs

  • Weight: 72 grams
  • Gate: Wire/Wire
  • Dogbone length: 10 cm

12. CAMP Photon Wire Express KS Dyneema Quickdraw

The best quickdraws for climbing are those that are lightweight and easy to handle. The CAMP Photon Wire Express KS Dyneema quickdraw is a great option for multi-pitch and alpine climbing because it is lightweight and has a large gate opening.

However, the unprotected wiregate can snag on your gear, so be aware of this potential issue.

Product Specs

  • Weight: 89 grams
  • Gate: Wire/Wire
  • Dogbone lengths: 12 cm

13. Trango Phase Alpine Quickdraw

The Trango Phase Alpine Quickdraw is a lightweight draw that is best suited for long multi-pitch routes or alpine climbing. These draws are not as high performing as other options available, but they are very lightweight and have a small packed size.

The carabiners used on these draws are tiny and have a small gate clearance, so they can be difficult to use with gloves on. If you are looking for a lightweight and minimalist quickdraw, the Trango Phase Alpine Quickdraw is a good option.

However, if you are looking for a high-performing quickdraw, there are better options available.

Product Specs

  • Weight: 68 grams
  • Gate: Wire/Wire
  • Dogbone lengths: 15cm

14. Black Diamond FreeWire Quickdraw

The Black Diamond FreeWire quickdraw is a great option for climbers on a budget. The HotWire wiregate carabiners are clip and handle well, and the polyester runner is flashy and strong.

However, the dual wiregate carabiners are prone to snagging on just about everything, which can be a bit of a hassle. For the same price, the CAMP USA Orbit Wire Express KS is a better option because it performs slightly better and weighs less.

Product Specs

  • Weight: 100 grams
  • Gate: Wire/Wire
  • Dogbone lengths: 12 cm, 16 cm

15. Wild Country Proton Quickdraw

The Wild Country Proton quickdraw is a great product. The sewn draw is easy to grab and pull up on, and the ends are narrower to accommodate the carabiners. The webbing has a complimentary colour scheme that looks really nice and gives a quality experience. The carabiners have a great clipping action and I couldn’t fault them.

The ergonomic back bar fits snugly against my forefinger for both clipping into bolts and feeding the rope into them. I particularly liked the bent gate, which is more pronounced than the DMM Alpha Pro. The straight gate had a curved feature that added a little extra friction and held the gate open when held in a stick.

The only downside to the Proton is that it doesn’t have a keylock nose, which can make unclipping a little more difficult. Overall, this is a great quickdraw and would be perfect for anyone looking for a quality product.

Product Specs

  • Weight: 116 grams
  • Gate: Solid/Solid
  • Dogbone lengths: 12cm, 17cm, 19cm

FAQ’s About Quickdraw For Climbing

What length quickdraw is best?

The best length for a quickdraw is 12cm. This offers the best balance between weight, Funkiness, and strength.

How many quickdraws do I need as a beginner?

As a beginner, you’ll likely need about 10-12 quickdraws.

How many quickdraws are needed for ice climbing?

For ice climbing, you’ll need about double the amount of quickdraws as you would for rock climbing (20-25)

Can you use quickdraws as a top rope anchor?

No, you should never use quickdraws as a top rope anchor as they are not meant to hold that much weight.

Can you top-rope off two quickdraws?

No, you should never top-rope off of two quickdraws as they are not meant to hold that much weight.

Which side of the quickdraw goes into the bolt?

The quickdraw should always be oriented so that the bent gate is facing the direction of travel. This prevents the gate from opening and dropping the rope.

How many quickdraws do I need for single pitch?

For single pitch climbing, you’ll need about 6-8 quickdraws.

What is the standard quickdraw length?

The standard quickdraw length is 18cm.

How long do quickdraws last?

Quickdraws typically last about 3-5 years with regular use.

Do you need quickdraws for sport climbing?

Yes, quickdraws are necessary for sport climbing. They are used to clipped the rope into bolts that have been placed in the rock.

How many quickdraws do I need trad?

For trad climbing, you’ll need about the same amount of quickdraws as you would for sport climbing (6-8).

How much weight can a quickdraw hold?

A quickdraw can hold about 20-25 kN (4500-5500 lbs).

How often should you replace quickdraws?

You should replace your quickdraws every 3-5 years, or sooner if they become damaged.

How do you take care of quickdraws?

After each use, you should inspect your quickdraws for damage. If they are damaged, you should replace them. You should also store your quickdraws in a dry place to prevent them from rusting.

How do you practice clipping quickdraws at home?

You can practice clipping quickdraws at home by using a rope and two carabiners. Attach the carabiners to the rope and then clip the rope into the carabiners. Practice clipping and unclipping the rope from the carabiners.

How do you make a quickdraw lock?

To make a quickdraw lock, you’ll need a locking carabiner and a non-locking carabiner. Attach the locking carabiner to one end of the rope and the non-locking carabiner to the other end. Clip the rope into the locking carabiner and then thread the rope through the non-locking carabiner. This will create a quickdraw lock.

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