8 Best Hangboards To Improve Hand And Finger Strength


best hangboards

If you’re into rock climbing, then you know that a hangboard (aka a fingerboard) is an essential piece of equipment. A good hangboard can help you improve your grip strength and overall climbing performance. But with so many different models on the market, how do you know which one is right for you?

That’s where this guide comes in. I’ll take a look at some of the best hangboards on the market and help you decide which one is right for you. So whether you’re a beginner or an experienced climber, read on to find out more about the best hangboards available today.

1. Best Hangboard For All Climbers: Trango Rock Prodigy Training Center

Trango Rock Prodigy Training Center review

Product Specs

  • Material: Polyurethane
  • Dimensions: 9.1″ x 12.1″ per half

Reasons To Buy

  • Variable edges provide gradual progression
  • Can be used in many different ways
  • Comes as two separate halves for optimal fit
  • Tactile reference points help improve precision

Reasons To Avoid

  • The texture is harsh and abrasive
  • Holds favor strong climbers
  • Costly compared to other options on the market
  • Needs a pulley system for full effectiveness

Trango partnered with the Anderson brothers, creators of The Rock Climber’s Training Manual, to produce this hangboard.

The book details how to construct an effective training regimen, and the RPTC reflects this same systematic mentality.

The main edges are variable, and they gradually get smaller as you move toward the outermost edge of the board. There are also small dots at the rear of each hold that provide tactile reference points. One downside to this design is that it can be disorienting for climbers – your index finger always has more grip options than your pinkie.

Precise progression is made easy with only a change in hand placement. This method is ideal for climbers of many levels who want to improve their skill sets.

RPTC is special because it can be used in so many different ways. For example, you can create different pocket combinations, pinch configurations, slopers, jugs, and square-edge crimps to climb it. These positive handles are essential for pull-ups and bar work.

The RPTC is a moderate size, but it still has plenty of trainable holds for climbers of almost any level.

What makes the RPTC innovative is its two-piece approach. The board comes in halves that you mount separately. Though it takes a bit more time, it’s worth it because you can adjust the placement to suit your body and preferences perfectly.

Although the RPTC has some advantages, it also has several flaws.

The texture is quite harsh, especially when you first start using it. Additionally, the hold variety is skewed toward strong climbers. Even as a relatively advanced climber myself, I have to take the weight off in order to get any actual use out of the pinches.

Ultimately, this board will likely be most effective in conjunction with a pulley system.

The RPTC is disadvantageous because of its price; it’s the most costly board compared to others in this test. It could be worth it for the right climber, but remember that this board needs more devotion than just financially.

Still, for the dedicated trainee, this is the best all-around hangboard on the market. Paired with a solid training plan, it’s a formidable tool.

2. Best Value For Money: Metolius 3D Simulator

Metolius 3D Simulator image

Product Specs

  • Material: Polyester resin
  • Dimensions: 28″ x 8.7″

Reasons To Buy:

  • Economical choice for climbers looking to make progress without breaking the bank.
  • Variety of edges and pockets offer a progression in difficulty.
  • Superior ergonomics help alleviate stress on your elbows and shoulders, allowing you to maintain good form.
  • Compact enough to fit above doorways with ceilings 8ft or lower.
  • Great option for climbers in the 5.11-5.12+ range.
  • Constantly updated and improved over the years.

Reasons To Avoid:

  • Not the best option for high-end climbers looking to push themselves further.
  • Not the most compact model offered.

The Metolius 3D Simulator is a top-selling product for good reason; it has constantly been updated and improved over the years. The newest Simulator has excellent ergonomics while also providing a more thoughtful progression of edges and grips.

Amongst stiff competition, the following reasons keep this model stand out and versatile.

The 3D Simulator is not only the best hangboard for your money, but it also happens to be incredibly affordable. This board offers a wide variety of edges and pockets that offer some of the best progressions of wood grips from a difficulty perspective.

This design also offers superior ergonomics that will help you maintain good form while alleviating stress in your elbows and shoulders.

For climbers whose skills are in the 5.11-5.12+ range, this product is perfect; and that’s most of the climbing community. If you’re a high-end climber, however, you should definitely avoid this product as I believe you won’t get too much out of it – compared to other products on this best climbing hangboard list.

Although it isn’t the most compact model, it offers a plethora of edges and pockets. It also strikes a nice balance of being small enough to fit above doorways with ceilings 8ft or lower.

This board is perfect for climbers who want to make progress and push themselves to the next grade without breaking the bank.

3. The Runner-up of Best Hangboards: Metolius Contact

Product Specs

  • Material: Polyester resin
  • Dimensions: 32.5″ x 11″

Reasons To Buy:

  • Good for climbers of different skill levels
  • Edges of varying depths and angles plus pockets to match
  • Pair of graduated pinches
  • Jugs (handholds) are a good size
  • The learning curve is shorter than the RPTC
  • Large size due to many usable holds

Reasons To Avoid.

  • Not as focused as the RPTC.
  • More expensive than our value pick.
  • Requires enough space in training location for its large size.

Although the score wasn’t as high as the Trango RPTC, the Metolius Contact did very well for an all-purpose board. It’s an especially good choice for new and more advanced climbers alike because it offers such a wide array of holds at a reasonable price.

The best part about the Metolius Contact is…well, there are lots of great features!

For example, it has edges of varying depths and angles plus pockets to match. And if that weren’t enough, there’s also a pair of graduated pinches. Okay, so maybe there’s only one pair of slopers–but they’re big ones!

The Contact rock climbing wall is more for advanced and elite climbers than beginner-level, but still welcoming to newcomers. The jugs (handholds) are a good size, and the edges get gradually deeper toward the top, providing an easy challenge.

The learning curve for this board is shorter than the RPTC, making it a good choice for beginner trainees.

The Contact measures 32.5 inches wide, which is the largest size I tested. Its large size is due to the many usable holds; however, you should make sure you have enough space in your training location before purchasing this product.

If you’re looking for a board that falls in the middle of those two extremes, this one is worth considering. It’s not as focused as the RPTC nor is it as cheap as our value pick, but it excels at being versatile and is currently cheaper than its competition.

It occupies a lovely middle ground and it is thus an ideal training companion for climbers of all levels.

4. Best For Advanced Climbers: Atomik Yaniro Power

Atomik Yaniro Power one of the best hangboards made

Product Specs

  • Material: Polyester resin
  • Dimensions: 29″ x 9″

Reasons To Buy:

  • Challenging for experienced climbers
  • Great texture that’s gentle on the skin
  • Suitable for mounting above most doorways
  • Wide design is shoulder and elbow friendly

Reasons to Avoid:

  • Limited mounting options
  • Not suitable for beginner climbers; much better beginner hangboard available.

If you’re a strong climber looking to push your limits, I highly recommend the fully-featured and burly Atomi Yaniro Power. No other model comes close to the difficulty offered by its impressive number of challenging holds.

In addition, the detail in each grip’s shape and depth provides a difficulty level that can be increased incrementally. Even though it is made of polyester resin, this model is gentle on the skin and has some of the best texture when compared to models made of wood.

If you’re looking for a board that’s perfect for experienced climbers, this is it. However, if you aren’t already climbing at a 5.12 level, you might want to consider another option on this best hangboards list; It’s not that 5.10 climbers can’t use the board – they can – but those who are regularly sending routes in the 5.11+ range will get more benefit from it.

Out of all the models I tested, the wide design was the most shoulder and elbow-friendly due to its expansive build.

While there may be limited mounting options, I found that it can still fit above most doorways with average-height ceilings (7.5-8ft). This is an incredible training board for those climbing at high levels.

5. Best Wooden Hangboard: Lattice Wooden Hangboard

Product Specs

  • Material: Real Wood

Reasons To Buy:

  • 20mm Edge and Pull-up Jug along the top of the board
  • The wooden hangboards provide Excellent built quality with Super rounded edges
  • Incomparable three-month tailored climbing specific training program
  • Easily pinpoint your strengths and weaknesses
  • Used by Alex Honnold to get in peak condition

Reasons to Avoid:

  • Not suitable for advanced climbers
  • Tailored programs may be too specific or lacking in certain areas of training

The Lattice Training Rung is an ingenious device that amplifies your climbing capabilities – and this bundle offer makes it even more of a bargain for the serious climber.

The lattice rung, while basic in its design, is more than enough to satisfy the beginner and intermediate climbers. With a 20mm edge and pull-up jug along the top of the board, you can be sure that your time spent on it will keep you entertained for hours.

Moreover, with excellent built quality and super rounded edges which won’t harm or damage your skin – this contraption guarantees an optimal climbing experience!

What makes this offer special, though, is the incomparable three-month tailored training program that comes with it.

As you ascend to the next level of your climbing journey with this wood hangboard, it is imperative to conduct a self-assessment and provide details regarding your preferred style of rock climbing (bouldering, sport, or competitive) as well as what training programs are ready for usage.

By taking your individual data and comparing it to the extensive data sets acquired from thousands of climbers, the lattice training team can easily pinpoint your strengths and weaknesses; helping you become a more advanced climber. With this information in hand, they will then craft a tailored 3-month program to adequately address those areas that need improvement.

The results from these Lattice training programs are nothing short of amazing! Several climbers have attested to making grade leaps within a matter of weeks, and even Alex Honnold employed the assistance of the Lattice team in order to get himself into prime condition for his first 9a/5.14d climb.

6. Tension Climbing Grindstone Mk2

Tension Climbing Grindstone Mk2 best hangboards

Product Specs

  • Material: Wood
  • Dimensions: 23″ × 7″ × 3″

Reasons To Buy:

  • Asymmetrical design for ideal grip spacing
  • 8mm edges for a challenging workout
  • Skin-friendly poplar wood construction
  • Rounded edge profile enhances comfort
  • Precisely etched depths in millimeters

Reasons To Avoid:

  • Pricey compared to other hangboard models
  • Not suitable for beginner climbers

With the Tension Climbing Grindstone Mk2, you can keep your fingers in peak condition and remain ready to climb even during long local climbing gym closures or chilly winter seasons. This advanced training tool is available for $130-155, making it a great investment into your climbing goals!

Tension, manufacturer of the Tension Board and a multitude of other wooden training apparatus, recently unveiled its newest innovation: the Grindstone Mk2 – an exceptional hangboard that further builds upon their already impressive lineage.

Featuring an asymmetrical design to ensure ideal grip spacing for each edge size, the Grindstone Mk2 offers superior training performance compared to earlier Tension models. Additionally, every edge is precisely etched with its depth in millimeters.

This phenomenal board features 8mm edges at its smallest, providing elite and more advanced climbers with endless opportunities to reach their climbing goals.

This finely crafted board is made of skin-friendly poplar wood and boasts a rounded-edge profile for enhanced comfort, allowing you to build outstanding hand and finger strength without any pain.

7. Best Portable Hangboard: Crag Life Burrito Grande

Products Specs

  • Material: Wood, 3D-printed plastic, and cordage

Reasons To Buy:

  • Excellent edge depths & hold shapes
  • Easy to transport
  • Ergonomic comfortability
  • Secure suspension with cordage rated at 500 pounds
  • Versatile for bouldering and hangboard training protocols

Reasons To Avoid:

  • Not as sturdy as wall-mounted boards

Crag Life’s Burrito Grande Hangboard ($89) is the perfect solution for many climbers on the go. With its unique cylindrical design, this portable hangboard includes a multitude of edge sizes and hold types – far more than any other comparable product! Whether you’re living out of your car or simply looking to warm up quickly at the base of a crag, I highly recommend investing in this versatile piece of equipment that adds an extra level of convenience to your climbing adventures.

To guarantee a secure suspension of your Burrito, I suggest using cordage that is rated at 500 pounds. With the addition of this high-quality rope, you can quickly adjust between depths ranging from 7mm to 20mm with effortless ease!

Furthermore, the wooden surface’s slightly rounded edges provide ergonomic comfortability for both grip and softness. Everyone who has tried it agrees: The Burrito was designed with total user satisfaction in mind!

The Burrito Grande not only offers four diverse edge depths, but it also features an assortment of hold shapes. You can choose from jug-style holds, open-handed sloping edges, rounded slopers, and small pinches that are sure to give you a secure grip for all your hangs.

Hangboard training protocols will be made easier with these comfortable yet challenging grips. I especially enjoyed the challenge of holding onto a kettlebell suspended by the cordage and squeezing our fingers around the pinch until failure!

Although the Burrito is heavier than other portable hang boards, it can be conveniently tucked in your pack and added to your standard cragging kit. Once you reach the wall, quickly attach it to a nearby bolt for an easy warm-up spot.

For boulderers, simply drape its straps over your feet and pull on the edges while sitting down – this will give you an effective way of engaging various muscles with minimal effort!

Unlike wall-mounted boards, like wooden boards, the Burrito Grande isn’t as sturdy. Although you might need to experiment with positioning it correctly, its cunning design and convenience makes up for this slight issue. With the Burrito in tow, your fingers will become stronger than ever before!

Are Portable Hangboards Good?

Portable hangboards can be a great way to supplement your training regimen, as long as you use them with caution. Portable hangboards provide the same benefit of traditional wall-mounted boards but are much more convenient, allowing climbers to practice and warm up almost anywhere.

They also offer the ability to switch between holds quickly and easily. However, they may not always be as sturdy as wall-mounted boards, and if you’re using them to hang heavy weight or perform advanced exercises, it is important to take extra precaution to ensure the board won’t give way.

Overall, portable hangboards can be a great training tool for climbers with endless opportunities to reach their climbing goals.

They are an excellent option for climbers who want to stay in shape, practice their technique, or warm up quickly before a climb. With the right level of care and caution, portable hangboards can be a great addition to any climber’s kit.

8. ProblemSolver Station

Products Specs

  • Material: European ash
  • Dimensions: 436 x 112 x 30 mm

Reasons To Buy:

  • Highly adjustable and portable solution for a doorway hangboard
  • Unique ProblemSolver inserts allow you to customize the board to your needs
  • Pinches, domes, and rungs can be purchased separately for greater variety in grip training
  • Robust build quality with European ash construction.

Reasons To Avoid:

  • The board is not suitable for extreme grip training and strength work
  • Limited range of accessories can be purchased separately.

If you’re seeking an excellent fingerboard for your pull-up bar, the Station by ProblemSolver is undoubtedly one of the most outstanding hangboards in 2022. Not only that, but you won’t need any costly or bulky door mounts either!

If you’re looking for an ideal wall-mountable hangboard, then try out this portable doorway one! It easily attaches to your bar with two adjustable straps that provide superior stability in comparison to single-point suspension. Plus, it comes with two small metal plates so that you can create a negative sloping angle on the board.

The ProblemSolver Hangboard features an astonishing amount of edges packed into its 436 x 113mm frame. With adjustable Problem Solver inserts, it offers three standard edge sizes (24mm, 18mm, and 14 mm), two-finger pockets, as well as a central hold for one arm, and hangs – making it the ideal doorway hangboard!

This board’s true strength lies in its accessories. I have already discussed the inserts which make each edge become small, but you can also buy pinches and domes of various sizes to raise your training to a greater level. 12mm or 16mm rungs are available that can be affixed at the front or back of the board if you want even more extended edges!

How to Choose The Right Hangboard For You

With the current market full of high-quality hangboards, it can be tricky to decide which one is right for you. But don’t worry, I’m here to help. In the following sections, I’ll show you how to find the perfect hangboard for your needs.

  • Determine Your Goal – Before buying a hangboard, decide what kind of training you want to do.
  • Size Matters – Make sure you get the right size for the space you have available.
  • Grips and Inserts – Consider the range of grips available and if inserts are included.
  • Quality Matters – Look for high-quality construction, so your board will last.
  • Accessories – Think about what extra accessories you might need, such as rungs or pinches.
  • Price – Compare prices to find the best value for your budget.

If you’re looking for a complete how-to guide, check out mine: how to choose the right hangboard for you.

Conclusion

No matter which climbing style you prefer, training on a hangboard is an efficient, cost-effective way to build finger strength and improve your skills. Plus, they are made to last for years with minimal upkeep! Even if you’re short on time—it’s the perfect tool when life gives you less than 30 minutes to spare—hangboards can help inspire productive workouts.

I am incredibly passionate about this review – climbing, training for it, and seeing others get better. Our aim is to help you identify the right hangboard based on the materials used, type of holds included, and difficulty level with our comprehensive review. I truly hope that you find it useful in your selection process!

FAQ’s

Campus Board vs Hangboard: What’s the Difference?

Hangboard training is ideal for upping your finger and grip strength, while campus board training (which can be done at your local climbing gyms) will help you increase power output as well as master the skill of transitioning between holds quickly and under tension.

Can Beginners Hangboard?

Yes, absolutely! Hangboarding is a great way for beginners to build up strength and endurance. Start with easy grip holds and progress slowly over time.

How Often Should I Use My Hangboard?

It depends on your goals and how your body feels. Generally speaking, no more than two to three sessions per week is recommended in the beginning. As you progress, you can increase the frequency of your sessions as long as you are not overdoing it.

What Is The Best Way To Hangboard?

It’s important to warm up before using a hangboard and cool down afterwards. Make sure to use slow, controlled movements when performing repetitions on the board and gradually increase intensity as you go. It’s also important to rest for at least 24 hours between hangboard sessions.

What Is The Difference Between a Climbing Wall and Hangboard?

Climbing walls offer more than just finger strength training—they can help you practice foot placement, body positioning, and techniques like mantles or stemming. Hangboards are designed to allow you to focus specifically on finger strength and grip endurance.

Is A Wood or Plastic Hangboard Better?

It largely depends on personal preference. Wood hangboards tend to have a more natural feel, while plastic hangboards have more of a uniform texture. Both can be effective for Finger Strength training, so it’s really up to you!

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