If you’re looking for high-quality climbing gear, look no further than La Sportiva climbing shoes. With a reputation for excellence, La Sportiva will have you ready to take on any climb.
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Today we’ll look at one of my favorite models: La Sportiva Miura
The next time you’re searching for a top-performing shoe to help give you an edge on your climb, look no further than this one. It’s been tested by renowned climbers all over the world and me (a relatively unknown climber), and it truly is the best of the best.
Let’s get into the La Sportiva Miura review…
La Sportiva Miura Review – A Complete Climbing Shoe Review
The La Sportiva Miura’s popularity and longevity in the market speak to its quality and innovative design. The shoe was introduced over 10 years ago, but it is still highly sought-after by climbers today.
Along with the recent stylistic revamp of the La Sportiva line, the Miura’s now have an updated look, while still maintaining the same construction and technical features that keep climbers coming back for more.
The Miura’s are a favorite among all-around climbers, with its 5mm Vibram XS Edge rubber sole that provides great grip and edging power on the rock. The shoe also has an innovative lacing system that helps provide a secure fit, while the heel tensioning strap adds extra stability.
Nowadays, people often want the Miura for its versatility. It functions well on a variety of terrain and styles. Depending on which size you choose, this shoe will be able to handle difficult sport redpoints or (if sized larger) an entire day of multi pitching.
For those who enjoy technical footwork, this shoe may just be your new/old best friend.
The La Sportiva Miura Toe Box
The toe box is designed to be roomy, so your toes have plenty of space to move around. However, when you’re not on the wall, the leather can cause some discomfort.
Some wearers might be turned off by Miura’s baggy toe box shape, but it serves a purpose! If you’re used to wearing a climbing show that fits snugly on your foot, it may seem strange that a “high performance” shoe would have so much dead space in the toe region.
This extra bit of space also allows your foot the ability to crinkle and apply pressure on even the smallest edges.
The La Sportiva Slingshot’s rand design is special because it wraps around the back of your foot like a sling shot, connecting to the Powerhinge on the midsole. This joinery, along with aggressive asymmetry, keeps everything focused on the very front edge of your foot for optimal performance.
The shoe’s performance begins to wear down on severe overhangs, which can still be climbed but may not be as comfortable. If most of your time is spent doing this type of rock climbing, look into getting a more downturned shoe specifically designed for this application.
Over time, the Miura’s flatten out, which reduces their effectiveness on steep angles. The rubber toe patch on this shoe is adequate but does not offer the same level of protection as a competition-specific or bouldering-specific shoe.
When you’re climbing indoors, toe hooks are more regular, so if they’re smaller or more technical challenge than usual, you may find it difficult.
The La Sportiva Miura Heel
The Miura’s heel is designed for slimmer feet and is held in place by the Slingshot rand. The rubber from the sole also continues about halfway up the back of the heel cup, giving it more stability on small edges.
Depending on the shape of your foot, you may find that the heel is uncomfortable. Specifically, where the shoe cuts off at the back of your heel, you may find that it rubs against your Achilles tendon.
The men’s and women’s Miura models differ in that the latter has light padding on the heel’s inner side. This feature not only elevates comfort levels but also helps with ensuring a snug and secure fit for the heel cup.
The Rubber of the La Sportiva Miura
The women’s and men’s model use different varieties of rubber, factoring in the weight difference. The men’s version uses the 4mm Vibram XS Edge rubber which is a stiff yet sticky variety that balances great edging precision.
The woman’s model is fitted with the 4mm Vibram XS Grip2, which is a much softer and suppler compound. This means that climbers who weigh less still get the same level of responsiveness on edges without sacrificing control.
Manufacturers are now starting to consider different body types when creating climbing gear, which is fantastic news for climbers everywhere. If you’re trying on gear at the store, don’t worry about the ‘male’ or ‘female’ labels–just choose what fits and works best for you.
La Sportiva Miura – How They Fit
Depending on a few factors like sizing, foot shape, and intended usage, comfort in the Miura may vary. There are multiple ways to size the shoes depending on how you want to use them; for example, if you need them for all-day comfort wear, it is recommended that you choose a size about half down from your regular street shoe size.
While you won’t be getting the best performance at a larger size, it’s ability to edge and smear doesn’t decrease drastically, making this a great multipitch shoe.
If you’re looking to use these at the sport crag for projecting, consider sizing them down to a size and a half below street shoe size. They’ll feel snug when you put them on, but will gradually stretch over time by about a half size.
Because these shoes are made of leather, they will form to your foot over time and deliver a perfect fit. It’s worth noting that La Sportiva shoes tend to run narrower than average.
The Muiras have a lacing system that makes it much easier to put them on and take them off. You can secure the perfect cinched-down fit with just one quick, firm tug of the laces. And taking them off is just as easy—one less complaint about lace-up shoes!
The Miura VS is a great alternative for more bouldering-specific and downturned shoes. If you’re looking for a Miura that uses velcro, however, its construction is very different from the lace-ups.
La Sportiva Miura Vs. Miura VS vs. Katana
I really liked my Katana’s because they are great at jamming, slabs, and can be worn for longer periods of time. However, I wouldn’t call them beginner shoe at all because I’ve also climbed 5.12 sport in them.
I also utilize them as my sport onsite shoes since I’m trying to be onsite for a much longer duration, and my tighter shoes (Testarossa) begin to hurt after 15 or 20 minutes. Katanas have excellent edging ability and are great all-arounders.
I only have one pair of Miura VS, and they were cheap when I got them. But now I really enjoy bouldering in them, especially on granite because the edging is so good. Though I’m not a fan of the heel design. They fit me well even though I sized half a size down from my Katanas–both pairs are comfortable to wear.
I also owned Miura lace at some point too but found that the Katana was much more comfortable for me overall.
If I were you, I would go for the best deal. You can get pretty much the same results with either shoe. The Katanas will be a bit comfier and the Miuras will have a more aggressive stance. For 5.10 sports routes, I would always choose Katanas.
Value For Money
The La Sportiva Miura climbing shoes offer good value for money. They are versatile shoes that can be used for a variety of climbing styles, from gym climbing to outdoor trad routes. They are also leather shoes, so they will form your foot over time and deliver a perfect fit. Additionally, the lacing system makes it much easier to put them on and take them off.
Overall, La Sportiva’s Miura climbing shoes are a great option for climbers looking for an all-around pair of shoes. They are durable and offer excellent performance on edges with their sticky rubber sole.
With the right fit, they can be comfortable enough to wear all day while also providing enough stretch to make them suitable for projecting routes.
The Verdict
If you want a versatile climbing shoe that can handle edges, pockets and smears, then the Miura is undoubtedly a great option. If you like to mix up your climbs between shorter routes at the sport crag and longer multi-pitch climbs, these could be perfect for you. Some avid wearers even have different sizes of this shoe to suit all occasions!
Trying both the women’s and men’s version of the shoe may improve your performance. Depending on the difference in volume and rubber sensitivity, one might provide a better fit than another. If you find a comfortable pair, you’ll be telling everyone about them soon enough.
What is The Difference Between the Miura and Miura VS?
The main differences between the Miura and Miura VS are their closure system, fit, and shape. The original Miura is a lace-up shoe with a slightly asymmetrical shape and softer rubber sole.
The Miura VS is a velcro-closure shoe that has an even more downturned design than the original. It also features a stiffer sole for added support when edging. The fit of the Miura VS also tends to be a bit tighter than that of the original, making it better suited for steeper and more powerful climbs.
They both feature La Sportiva’s patented P3 platform which ensures that your foot shape will stay consistent over time without sacrificing sensitivity. The VS is also equipped with a Vibram XS grip sole, making it more suitable for steeper and harder routes.
So when choosing between the two shoes, consider your climbing style and the type of rock you’ll be climbing on. If you’re an all-around climber who likes to dabble in different styles and routes, go for the original Miura.
If you’re a more advanced climber looking for a shoe with extra support and sensitivity on overhanging terrain, opt for the Miura VS.
Are Miura Good for Bouldering?
Yes, the Miura shoes are great for bouldering. They are highly precise and provide good edging on small footholds.
When Did the La Sportiva Miura Come Out?
The La Sportiva Miura climbing shoe was first released in 2007. It quickly gained popularity with climbers due to its aggressive downturned shape and sticky rubber sole, making it perfect for slab, vertical and overhanging routes. The Miura VS was released in 2014 as an even more advanced version of the original design.
What Size is La Sportiva Miura?
The La Sportiva Miura is available in sizes 34-46 (including half sizes). It is recommended that you size down by 1.5 US sizes from your street shoe size for a comfortable fit. For example, if you wear a men’s 10 US street shoe, you would choose an 8.5 US in the Miura.