Carabiner climbing clips are used in rock climbing and other activities. It is usually made of aluminum, steel, or titanium. They are often confused with “snap links,” which are different pieces of equipment.
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Carabiners have a spring-loaded gate that allows them to be easily attached and detached from ropes, chains, and other objects.
In this article, we will discuss the different types of carabiners and why they are an essential kit that practically every rock climber needs.
What is a Carabiner in Climbing?
What is a Carabiner?: A carabiner is a metal clip with a spring-loaded gate used by climbers to connect the carabiner to their rope and anchor points, protecting them from falls.
Carabiners are made from aluminum, steel, or titanium and come in various shapes and sizes. The most popular type of carabiner among climbers is the “D” shape.
Carabiner History
The carabiner was invented in the early 1900s by German climber Otto Herzog. He wanted a way to easily attach and detach his rope from anchor points while climbing. His design has remained relatively unchanged over the years and is still used today by climbers worldwide.
Why Do Climbers Use Carabiners?
Carabiners are essential to a climber’s gear because they allow the rope to be attached and detached from anchor points quickly and easily. Carabiners are also used to build belay devices, quickdraws, and other pieces of climbing equipment.
Here are some more use cases for carabiners when climbing:
Belaying & Rappelling
Carabiner for belaying and rappelling is one of the primary use cases. When belaying, climbers use a carabiner to attach their belay device to their harness. This carabiner is then used to clip the rope into the belay device. Rappelling with a carabiner is done similarly, with the climber attaching their rappel device to their harness with a carabiner and then clipping the rope into the rappel device.
Quickdraws
Quickdraws are two carabiners connected by a short length of webbing. Quickdraws are used to clip the rope into protection while climbing. The quickdraw is clipped to the climber’s harness with one carabiner and then clipped into the protection with the other.
Clipping Rope Into Protection
Carabiners are also used to clip the rope into protection while climbing. The carabiner is clipped to the climber’s harness and then clipped into the protection.
Building Anchors
Carabiners are also used to build anchors. An anchor is a point of attachment for the rope. It can be made from natural features like trees and boulders or man-made, like bolts and chains.
Carabiners are used to attach the rope to these anchor points. Carabiners are an essential piece of equipment for rock climbers.
Storing + Racking Gear
Carabiners are also used to store and rack gear. Gear can be stored on the harness, in pockets, or a gear bag. In addition, carabiners can be used to attach gear to the harness or gear bag. This keeps the gear from getting lost and makes it easy to find.
Racking gear is when a climber arranges their equipment on their harness so that it is easy to find and use. Carabiners are used to attach gear to the harness in a specific order. This makes it easy to find the equipment when it is needed.
Why Is It Called A Carabiner?
The word “carabiner” comes from the German word “Karabinerhaken.” This word was used to describe a type of snap link used by the German military. The word “carabiner” has been used to describe climbing equipment since the early 1900s.
What is The Standard Size of a Carabiner?
The standard size of a carabiner is about 3 inches. Although carabiner sizes can differ depending on what you want to use it for.
The Parts of a Carabiner
Parts of a carabiner include the body, the gate, and the clip. Here is the full list as well as an image so you can better visualize the parts which make up the carabiner:
Carabiner Shapes
Different carabiner shapes depend on what you need them for. Some common shapes are the “D” shape, the oval shape, and the locking carabiner.
I will touch on each shape and some of the pros and cons behind using these carabiner types when you’re out on a crack.
Asymmetric D Shape
The asymmetric D-shape is so-called because it has two different sides, one with a larger diameter and one with a smaller diameter. This shape allows climbers to clip gear onto the carabiner hook in two ways, making it more versatile than other shapes.
Carabiners are made from either aluminum or steel and come in different strengths and sizes. Climbers use carabiners to connect their ropes to their harnesses, their harnesses to their belay devices, and their belay devices to their anchors.
Pros:
- Large gate opening
- Strong and light
Cons:
- Expensive than other options
- Not as strong as the standard D-shape carabiner
Pear Shape
Like their asymmetric D counterparts, Pear-shaped carabiners have extensive gate areas for easy rope, knot, and gear clipping. Pear-shaped carabiners are primarily used for belaying and rappelling but may also be utilized as anchor devices for top roping or multi-pitch climbing.
HSM carabiners are also known as HMS carabiners; some have the HMS logo on the spine. The initials HSM stand for “High Strength,” which refers to the top of this carabiner’s shape, which is broader and more symmetrical than other brands’ designs.
Pros:
- Large gate opening
- Explicitly designed for belaying and rappelling
Cons:
- Heavier and more expensive than most other shapes
- Not as strong as D shapes
D Shape
Most climbing applications would benefit from D-shaped carabiners. The center loads off-center toward the more robust, non-gated side, so a smaller, lighter D carabiner can be just as strong as a giant oval.
Pros:
- The strongest shape you can buy
- Enormous gate opening, even more, significant than oval
Cons:
- Smaller gate opening and heavier than asymmetric D shape
- More expensive than oval shape
Oval Carabiners
The traditional style of carabiners is the oval variety. They’re adaptable and reasonable, yet not as robust as other forms. Oval carabiners have smooth, uniform top and bottom curves to minimize weight transfer.
The shape of the shoes gives them an advantage when it comes to aiding climbing. Because they keep loads centered at their curve, runners will not shift under strain.
Pros:
- Uniform shape limits load shifting
- Hold more gear than D-shape carabiners
Cons:
- Smaller gate opening and heavier than other shapes
- Not as strong as different shapes
S Shaped Carabiners
The S-shape is a little more specialized. S-shaped carabiners have a curved spine designed to fit around your gear, making it less likely to move or twist out of place.
This shape is often used for ice climbing and mountaineering because it’s less likely to snag on gear or clothing. They’re also great for attaching extra gear, like ice screws or quickdraws, to your harnesses.
Pros:
- A curved spine prevents shifting and twisting
- Great for attaching extra gear
Cons:
- Smaller gate opening and heavier than other shapes
- Not as strong as different shapes
Carabiner Gate Types
The carabiner clip has a couple of different gate types. Just like the shapes of the carabiner, the one you want depends on what you’re looking to use it for.
Straight Gate Carabiners
A straight gate carabiner is a type of carabiner that has a straight, or “vertical,” opening. They are typically used for attaching ropes to anchors and are less likely to get caught on objects than other types of carabiners.
Bent Gate Carabiners
Bent gate carabiners have a “hook” shape at the gate’s end, making them easier to clip into bolts and other objects. They are typically used for clipping quickdraws together and are less likely to come undone than straight-gate carabiners.
Wiregate Carabiners
Wiregate carabiners have a wire instead of a solid piece of metal forming the gate. This makes them lighter than other types of carabiners and less likely to freeze up in cold weather.
Auto-Locking Carabiners
Auto-locking carabiners have a mechanism that automatically locks the gate when closed. This makes them more secure than other types of carabiners and less likely to come undone by accident.
Locking Gate Carabiners
Locking gate carabiners have a gate that locks into place, making them more secure than other carabiners. They are typically used for belaying, rappelling, and anchor building.
The Twin Gate Carabiner
The twin gate carabiner is a type of carabiner that has two gates, one on each side. This makes it more versatile than other types of carabiners and less likely to come undone by accident.
Types of Carabiner Locks
Again, just as the other aspects of the carabiner I’ve covered, I want to now look at the types of locks each carabiner may have:
Screw lock
The screw lock is a locking mechanism that uses a threaded screw to secure the gate. This makes it more secure than other types of locks and less likely to come undone by accident.
Auto-lock
The auto-lock is a type of locking mechanism that automatically locks the gate when it is closed. This is because the carabiner spring mechanism is the main feature. This makes it more secure than other types of locks and less likely to come undone by accident.
Twist lock
The twist lock is a locking mechanism that uses a twisting motion to secure the gate. This makes it more secure than other types of locks and less likely to come undone by accident.
Magnetic lock
The magnetic lock is a type of locking mechanism that uses magnets to secure the gate in place. This makes it more secure than other types of locks and less likely to come undone by accident.
Climbing Carabiner Rating System Explained
There are two main types of carabiner rating systems:
The first is the CE/UIAA system which rates a carabiner’s ability to hold an impact.
This is important for safety when using the device in rock climbing, mountaineering, or other sports where falling is possible.
The second rating system is the major axis rating. This rates the carabiner’s ability to hold a static load along its longest axis.
This is important for industrial applications, such as construction or rigging, where the carabiner will hold much weight in one direction.
CE/UIAA Carabiner Rating System
The CE/UIAA carabiner rating system is the most important for climbers, as it rates a carabiner’s ability to withstand an impact. This is important because when climbers fall, the force of the fall can be enough to break a carabiner.
The CE/UIAA has two ratings for carabiners:
The first is the number of kN or kiloNewtons that the carabiner can withstand along its central axis.
The second is the number of kN the carabiner can withstand when impact loaded. This is important because it simulates the force of a climber falling and hitting the ground.
Major Axis Rating
The central axis rating is the amount of weight, in pounds, that the carabiner can hold along its longest axis. This is important for industrial applications, such as construction or rigging, where the carabiner will have a lot of weight in one direction.
The primary axis rating is usually between 20kN and 45kn.
Best Carabiners For Rock Climbing
The answer to this question depends on what you’re looking to use the carabiner for. The oval carabiner is a good choice if you’re looking for a versatile, all-purpose carabiner.
On the other hand, if you’re looking for a lighter, more specialized carabiner, then the wire gate or bent gate carabiners are good choices.
How To Use A Carabiner
Now that we’ve covered the different carabiner clips let’s look at how to use them.
Using a Carabiner to Attach a Rope to an Anchor
The most common use for a carabiner is attaching a rope to an anchor. To do this, you’ll need a carabiner with a straight gate.
- First, thread the rope through the carabiner and make sure the gate is open.
- Next, clip the carabiner into the anchor point.
- Finally, close the gate and pull on the rope to ensure it’s secure.
Using a Carabiner to Clip Quickdraws Together
Another everyday use for a carabiner is clipping quickdraws together. To do this, you’ll need a carabiner with a bent gate.
- First, open the gate of the carabiner.
- Next, clip one end of the quickdraw into the anchor point and the other end into the carabiner.
- Finally, close the gate and pull on the quickdraw to ensure it’s secure.
Using a Carabiner to Build an Anchor
If you’re looking to build an anchor, you’ll need a carabiner with a locking gate.
- First, open the gate of the carabiner.
- Next, clip the carabiner into the anchor point.
- Finally, close the gate and twist the locking mechanism to secure it.
Now that you know how to use a carabiner put your new knowledge to use and go climbing!
FAQs: What is a Carabiner?
How Much Weight Can a Carabiner Hold?
A carabiner can hold a lot of weight–between 20 and 45 kilonewtons, depending on the type.
Best Carabiner for Belaying?
When looking for a carabiner to use for this purpose, it’s essential to find one that is strong and has a large enough gate opening to fit the belay device. The Petzl Spirit Bent Gate Carabiner is a good option because it is both strong and has a large gate opening.
What is the Strongest Carabiner?
The most robust carabiner is the D-shaped carabiner.
What’s another word for carabiner?
The other word for carabiner is “clip” or “hook.”
Do carabiners break?
Yes, carabiners can break. However, they are designed to be solid and durable, so it is unlikely that a carabiner will break under regular use. If a carabiner breaks, it is usually because it was overloaded or used in a way that wasn’t intended to be used.
How do you pronounce carabiner?
The word “carabiner” is pronounced like “ka-ruh-bai–nuh.”
What is the correct way to load a carabiner?
The weight should be evenly distributed across a carabiner when loading a carabiner. This will help to prevent the carabiner from breaking.