Belaying is a critical skill for all roped climbers. It involves managing the rope for a climbing partner and ensuring that, in the event of a fall, the climber is safely caught.
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In this article, we will explore what belaying is and the role of the belayer in detail.
So, What is Belaying?
What is Belaying?: The belayer’s primary responsibility is to manage the climbing rope for their climbing partner. This involves paying out slack as the climber moves up and taking in slack as the climber moves down. The belayer must also be prepared to catch a fall at any time.
Catching a fall requires both quick reflexes and strong muscles. Therefore, the belayer must be able to lock off the belay loop instantly, using either an arm or a leg. This will prevent the climber from falling any further and potentially injuring themselves.
Once the fall is caught, the belayer must slowly lower the climber back to the ground (or to their last point of safety). This is a delicate process, as the climber may be injured or in shock. Therefore, the belayer must take care not to drop them.
Belaying is an essential skill for all climbers and requires training and practice. With time and experience, belayers will become more confident and adept at catching falls and managing the rope.
Belay Devices
There are many belaying devices on the market, and choosing the right one is a personal preference. The most important thing is to ensure that the device is approved by the UIAA (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) or CE (Conformité Européenne).
These organizations set safety standards for climbing equipment, and their approval ensures the device is safe.
The ATC (Air Traffic Controller), Black Diamond Big Air, and Petzl Reverso are some of the most popular belaying devices.
Each device has its advantages and disadvantages, so it is essential to do your research before purchasing one.
But did you know there are three main styles of belaying devices available? They are auto belays, tubular belays, and figure 8 belays – let’s discuss…
Auto belay device
Auto-locking belay devices use a motor to take in the rope slack and lower climbers automatically. These devices are popular in gyms, as they require little supervision from staff. They are also convenient for beginners, as there is no need to learn how to belay.
However, auto belays can be dangerous if not used properly. For example, if a climber falls and the device misses them, they could be seriously injured.
It is essential always to follow the manufacturer’s instructions when using an auto belay device.
Tubular belay device
Tubular belay devices are the most popular type of belaying device. They are easy to use and can be used with various ropes.
Tubular belay devices allow the rope to pass through a central hole. The hole is surrounded by teeth or notches, which grip the rope and prevent it from slipping back through.
The belayer locks off the rope to catch a fall by pushing down on the device. This action causes the teeth to grip the rope, stopping the climber from falling further.
Figure 8 belay device
Figure 8 belay devices are named after their shape. They are the most straightforward belaying device and have been used for centuries.
Figure 8 belay devices allow the rope to pass through a central hole. The hole is surrounded by a loop of metal, which can be opened or closed.
The belayer closes the loop around the rope to catch a fall. This action locks off the rope, preventing the climber from falling further.
Belay Line
A belay line is a rope attached to the belayer and used to catch a climber if they fall. The belay line is also used to lower the climber back to the ground (or to their last point of safety).
Belay lines are typically made from nylon or polyester and are between 10 and 12mm in diameter.
The length of the belay line depends on the climbing type. For example, sport climbers typically use shorter belay lines (30 to 40m), so they can be easily lowered back down to the ground.
In contrast, trad climbers often use longer belay lines (60 to 70m) to be lowered from one pitch to the next.
Belay lines must be inspected before each use and replaced if they are damaged or show signs of wear.
Styles of Belaying
There are two main styles of belay techniques – dynamic belaying and static belaying.
Dynamic belaying is the most common type of belaying and is typically used when sport climbing. In this method, the belayer takes in slack as the climber moves up and gives out slack as the climber moves down.
This style of belaying is more forgiving, allowing the climber to fall a shorter distance. It also reduces the impact force on the climber, which can help to prevent injuries.
Static belaying is typically used when trad climbing. The belayer does not take in or give out slack in this method. Instead, they keep the rope tight at all times.
This style of belaying is less forgiving, as it allows the climber to fall a greater distance. It also increases the impact force on the climber, which can lead to injuries.
To help reduce the impact force, some experienced climbers use an elastic device (such as a shock absorber) between the belay line and the rope.
The style of belaying depends on the type of climbing and the belayer’s preference.
Sport climbing
Sport climbing is a form of rock climbing that typically uses dynamic belaying.
In sport climbing, the climber is attached to a rope that runs through anchors at intervals along the route. The belayer remains on the ground and takes in slack as the climber moves up.
If the climber falls, the belayer can lock off the rope to stop them from falling further.
Sport climbing is typically done on shorter routes (less than 30m) with pre-placed anchors. This type of climbing is often seen as less risky than other forms, as the relatively short falls and well-protected routes make it easier to avoid injuries.
Sport climbing can be done indoors or outdoors.
Trad climbing
Trad climbing is a form of rock climbing that typically uses static belaying.
In trad climbing, the climber is only attached to a rope once they have placed their protection (such as cams or nuts) in the rock. After that, the belayer remains on the ground and keeps the rope tight.
If climbers fall, they will fall a greater distance than in sport climbing. However, this climbing style is considered more adventurous, as it allows climbers to ascend routes that have not been climbed before.
Trad climbing can be done indoors or outdoors.
Bouldering
Bouldering is a form of rock climbing that does not use ropes or belayers.
In bouldering, climbers climb relatively short routes (less than 6m) without any protection. As a result, they will only fall a short distance onto mats placed on the ground if they fall.
Bouldering is often considered riskier than other climbing forms, as the climber can fall from a greater height. However, this type of climbing is considered more athletic, as it requires climbers to use their strength and agility to overcome the challenges of the route.
Lead Belaying
Lead climbing is a form of rock climbing that uses dynamic belaying.
In lead climbing, the lead climber is attached to a rope that runs through anchors at intervals along the route. The belayer remains on the ground and takes in slack as the climber moves up.
If the climber falls, the belayer can lock off the rope to stop them from falling further.
Lead climbing is typically done on longer routes (more than 30m) with anchors placed at regular intervals. This type of climbing is often considered riskier than other forms, as the relatively long falls and less protection make it easier to get injured.
Lead climbing can be done indoors or outdoors.
Speed Climbing
Speed climbing is a form of rock climbing that uses dynamic belaying.
In speed climbing, the climber is attached to a rope that runs through anchors at intervals along the route. The belayer remains on the ground and takes in slack as the climber moves up.
If the climber falls, the belayer can lock off the rope to stop them from falling further.
Speed climbing is typically done on shorter routes (less than 30m) with pre-placed anchors. This type of climbing is often seen as less risky than other forms, as the relatively short falls and well-protected routes make it easier to avoid injuries.
Speed climbing can be done indoors or outdoors.
Top Rope Belaying
Top rope climbing is a method of belaying in which the belayer is positioned below the top rope climber, and the rope runs through an anchor at the top of the route.
This belaying is typically used on routes that are too difficult or dangerous to lead climb. It allows the climber to focus on climbing without worrying about placing protection.
Top rope climbing can be done indoors or outdoors.
Self-belaying
Self-belaying is a belay technique used to ascend a rope without another person. This can be done using various methods, including mechanical devices or simply relying on body weight to create friction against the rope.
The most common method for self-belay is to use a figure eight device, which is attached to the climber’s harness. This device clips onto the rope and then around the climber’s waist, creating a loop that can be tightened or loosened as needed.
Mechanical devices such as the GriGri are also famous for self-belaying, as they provide a high degree of friction and can be quickly released when needed. These devices work by gripping the rope tightly as it passes through, which creates enough resistance to hold the climber in place.
Bodyweight belaying is another option, though it is generally considered less safe than using a device. This method relies on the climber’s weight to create friction against the rope, which can be challenging to control. In addition, if the climber slips, there is a risk of falling a long distance before the rope catches. For this reason, bodyweight belaying is typically only used in emergencies.
How to Belay A Parnter
When belaying a partner, the most important thing is to pay attention and be ready to catch a fall at any time. In addition, the belayer must keep the rope tight and never take their hand off the brake rope.
But that’s just the basics; right now, we’re going to get into how to belay a partner, the gear you’ll need, and everything else that will ensure you have a successful climbing trip with your friend.
Gearing Up
The first thing you must do is ensure you have all the gear you need. This includes a climbing harness, belay device, rope, carabiners, and helmets. You’ll also want to dress in comfortable clothing that won’t restrict your movement.
Setting Up + Belaying
Once you have all your gear, it’s time to get ready to belay your partner:
- The first thing you need to do is tie the rope into your harness. Double-check that the knot is secure and that the rope runs through the correct loops on your harness. You want the rope to stay upright while you’re belaying!
- Next, attach your belay device to your harness. There are many different belay devices, but the Black Diamond ATC is the most common.
- Once your device is attached, clip one of your carabiners through the loop on the device. Then, thread the rope through the locking carabiner and around the device. Be sure to leave enough slack in the rope so that your partner can climb without being too tight.
- Now it’s time to tie the rope off. Take the rope’s end and tie a figure eight knot around the belay device. Be sure to leave enough slack in the knot to loosen it when your partner reaches the top quickly.
Now you’re ready to belay your partner’s climber climbs! Have them start climbing, and be sure to pay attention at all times. Keep the rope tight, and be ready to catch a fall if necessary.
How to Deal With A Fall
If your partner falls, use your hand to stop the rope from running through the belay device. This will help prevent the falling climber fall too far. Then, slowly lower them to the ground.
Once your partner has safely reached the top, you can untie the figure eight knot and lower them. Again, keep the rope tight, and be careful not to let them fall.
Communication
Communication is vital when belaying a partner. Be sure to let them know when you’re ready, and be sure to pay attention at all times. If you see that they’re about to fall, yell “Fall!” so that they can prepare themselves.
Climbing is a team sport, and working together is essential to ensure everyone stays safe.
Technique
There are many different techniques that you can use when belaying a partner. The most important thing is to be safe and always pay attention.
- One technique is to keep the rope tight at all times. This will help prevent your partner from falling too far if they slip.
- Another method is to hold the rope in one hand and use your other hand to brake the rope if your partner falls. This cannot be easy, but it’s crucial to stop the rope from running through the belay device if necessary.
- And finally, always be sure to communicate with your partner. Tell them when you’re ready, and be sure to pay attention at all times.
What is Belaying – Final Words
Belaying is a critical part of climbing, and it’s essential to be safe and pay attention at all times. Be sure to have all the gear you need, tie the rope off correctly, and be ready to catch a fall if necessary. And always remember to communicate with your partner!